Basic Jewelry Terms, Processes, and Techniques

It is easy to feel intimidated and out-of-place when you're visiting a high-class jewelry shop for the first time. To avoid making unwanted and uniformed purchases, improve your knowledge about jewelry starting with the tips below. If you speak the same language people in the jewelry industry speak then you'll surely go home with the jewelry piece you want, need, and definitely can afford.

The Meaning of Gemstone

A gemstone may be a rock, mineral, or even a petrified material that's cut and polished to be used for making jewelry pieces. It may be even harvested like pearls or organic like amber, just as long as it has aesthetic appeal. In the old days, precious gemstones only referred to the Big Three: emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. Everything else was labeled as semi-precious gemstones.

Categories today, however, have been thankfully changed and widened to avoid further confusion.

The Ins and Outs of Lapidary

Lapidary refers to the process of cutting and polishing gemstones. Rough materials are left uncut and unpolished. Cobbed materials are referred to as fractured. Materials like silicon carbide and diamond, due to their hardness, are used for cutting gemstones in a progressive abrasion process.

Compounds like aluminum and chromium oxide are, on the other hand, used for polishing gemstones.

Common cutting techniques include tumbling, drilling, polishing, lapping, sanding, grinding, and sawing. Cut gemstones are then polished into several forms such as sculptures, intaglios, cameos, mosaics, intarsias, inlays, spheres, beads, cabochons, and faceted stones.

Sawing The main tool used in sawing is a copper or steel blade with diamond grit on the edges. Water or oil is used to eliminate cutting debris and prevent the blade and stone from overheating.

Grinding Diamond-impregnated grinding wheels made of silicon carbide are used to grind gemstones and shape them into a pre-form. Liquid substance is also used to prevent both the stone and tool from overheating.

Sanding This process is similar to grinding but utilizes finer abrasives instead. It is often performed as a follow-up after grinding for removing scratches caused by the previous cutting technique. For round gemstones, a belt sander may be used in accompaniment to ensure smoother and rounder curves.

Lapping A lap, which is a flat disk that's either vibrating or rotating, is used to create flat surfaces rather than round ones. The process however is similar to sanding and grinding.

Drilling This technique is used if the lapidarist wishes to create a hole through or in a gemstone. Drilling tools may be rotating or ultrasonic.

Tumbling A gemstone that's placed in a rotating barrel filled with water and abrasives is tumbled for polishing. These gemstones are usually roughly shaped and the polishing process is gradual and performed with interval washings. Sometimes, vibratory machines are used in lieu of rotating barrels.

This time, the barrels vibrate rather than rotate. Tumbling techniques are also used to polish metal jewelry pieces.

Cabochons Cabbing or cabochon cutting is achieved by gluing or dopping the gemstone into a metal or wooden dopstick or simply holding it in place. The cabbing machine then twirls and creates a round smooth surface top and a flat or slightly rounded bottom for the gemstone. This is usually an alternative to faceting for gemstones that possess too many inclusions.

Faceted Stones Gemstones that have faceted forms reflect brilliant color and clarity from all sides and at all light levels. This technique is most suitable for transparent stones. Today, new techniques like grooves and concave facets are used to create new looks for faceted gemstones.

The Importance of Cut and Polish in Gemstones

Cut is one of the all-important 4C's and which is used not only to appraise diamonds but gemstones in general as well. Gemstones are often cut with regard to their size alone. But beautifully cut gemstones take their color into consideration as well.

If you are shopping for faceted gemstones, one way of determining the excellence of its cut is to check if its able to reflect light on a consistent level throughout its surface. Look for symmetrical rather than asymmetrical cuts as well. Lastly, be reminded that cut is different from shape.

Polish is simply like adding the final touches to a gemstone. A well-polished gemstone is one with evenly smooth gloss and with no visible scratches on its surface.

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Selling Jewelry with a History

Buying antique jewelry? If you don't mind the usually high price, you should get yours from antique jewelry stores. Antique jewelry stores follow strict standards when it comes to selling this type of jewelry and they also keep the quality high by ensuring that the jewelry has been inspected and repaired properly.

Antique is old is vintage

When it comes to checking out pieces in an antique jewelry store, it can be a bit confusing for inexperienced buyers, especially when they encounter certain terms. Is it an antique or is it vintage? And what's antique style jewelry anyway?

Time is relative, so antique jewelry today may have been considered vintage about 50 years ago. Truly antique jewelry, by the way, belong to a museum. If you truly want antique jewelry and have money to burn, ask your antique jewelry store to show you pieces worn in the Georgian or Victorian years.

Victorian-age antique jewelry are often favored because of the sophistication and technical perfection they have achieved. The Victorian years were also the time when diamond mines in Africa began to produce gems of excellent quality.

Art Deco and Art Nouveau-style antique jewelry are also bestsellers in antique jewelry stores, primarily because of their distinctive look and design. This was the time when the Industrial Revolution shaped the sentiments of many jewelry wearers, particularly women.

As for antique style jewelry, many antique jewelry stores also carry these along with authentically old pieces. These are jewelry that are not necessarily old; they just look old. They are crafted to imitate the old or antique design that was prevalent during a certain era. It is quite easy to buy some baroque-style jewelry that was made just a few years before and not hundreds of years ago.

Buying from antique jewelry stores

Always check out the background and record of an antique jewelry store before buying. You want a reputable antique jeweler retailer to deal with, somebody who will not sell you a cleverly designed imitation. Don't be afraid to ask questions and if possible, read on the jewelry styles of the era you're aiming for.

It's better to visit the antique jewelry store in person so you can view, inspect, touch and try on the pieces yourself. Ask the salesperson about the history of the jewelry, whether it has undergone any repairs or if it is the original setting or design. If the setting is intact, you can also ask if the stones used in the current piece are originals or replacements.

You can also check out some antique jewelry stores online. Try www.antique-jewelry.com by Edith Weber, Amazon, www.faycullen.com and www.hillarysantiques.com.

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Knowing the Different Cuts for Gemstones

When grading and appraising gemstones, cut may not be as influential as the other C's like color, clarity, and carat weight, but it is definitely an influencing factor when it comes to the gemstones overall beauty. To properly evaluate the cut of a given gemstone, you must not only study its face-up view or the surface or top view but study it from all other angles as well. An excellent cut can reduce loss on carat weight but enhance its looks to breathtaking proportions at the same time.

Common Cuts Used on Gemstones

Brilliant Cuts A brilliant-cut gemstone usually has three flat polished surfaces per facet. They are positioned in such a way to radiate the best light from the gemstone. Gemstone cutters also make sure that the angles will enhance the brilliance of the gemstone. Brilliant cuts are mostly used for diamonds and transparent gemstones.

Some facets will have one or more shapes like stars, hearts, kites, and lozenges. Variations of the brilliant cut include the naivet‚ or boat-shaped marquise, per-shaped pendeloque, and oval shape. Oval shapes are suitable for gemstones with lower carat weight because they can make them appear bigger.

The most popular variation of all is the full-cut round brilliant. It has fifty-eight facets, presently the greatest count for brilliant cut gemstones. The single brilliant cut, on the other hand, has seventeen to eighteen facets. For gemstones used in earrings and pendants, the briolette variation is mostly used to provide it with circular cross-section teardrop shapes. Brilliant cuts with triangular dimensions are called trilliants while square brilliant cuts are also known as princess cuts.

Step Cuts Another popular cut for a gemstone is the step or trap cut. Step cuts are best used for colored gemstones because they possess four-sided table facets and girdles as well as parallel quadrilateral facets. The term step cut was used because this gemstone cut bears similarities with a staircase. Step cuts have fewer facets than brilliant cuts.

One well-known variation of a step cut is the baguette. It is rectangular in shape but with square corners. Emerald cuts are also quite popular. Its name was derived from its consistent use with emeralds. Emerald cuts remove the corners and form an octagonal shape. Clipping off the corners protect delicate gemstones like emeralds and facilitate setting of gemstones at the same time. Other popular variations for step cuts are window, table, radiant, and oval.

The best advantage of step cuts is its ability to enhance a gemstones color, making the color richer and appearing to have originated straight form the belly of the gemstone.

Mixed Cuts Mixed cuts for gemstones are mostly combinations of brilliant and step cuts. The crown or top portion of a gemstone will resemble a brilliant cut while the pavilion or bottom portion of a gemstone will receive a step cut. At times, the two cuts will appear side by side. Mixed cuts are also characterized by their rounded outlines. Many transparent gemstones like rubies and sapphires are often cut this way. Gemstones with mixed cuts are also commonly set in prongs.

Variations for mixed cuts include but are not limited to cushion, zircut, pear or teardrop, and oval.

Cabochon Cuts A gemstone with a cabochon cut will appear rounded on top and flat on the bottom. At times, gemstones will only appear in this cut. Height of a gemstones dome with a cabochon cut varies. The name is derived from the French term used for bald heads. Cabochon cuts are simplest to make, and that's why you'll often see them used on affordable gemstones and those that will not benefit from faceting.

Fancy Cuts Any other cut besides those mentioned above is usually referred to as fancy. A checkerboard cut, for instance, will have a combination of a large table facet on top and a mixed cut. A rose cut will have a round girdle outline, flat base, dome-shaped crown, and facets of a brilliant cut.

When judging the cut of a gemstone, start by evaluating it face up. See if the gemstone shows uniform color distribution and radiates light in the best possible way. Gemstones cut with large windows are unappealing. Lastly, recheck all other angles and determine if the cut took both carat weight and looks into consideration.

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The Stories and Meanings of Gemstone

Ever wondered what your birthstone means? Since the beginning of early times, many people had assumed that different gemstones have their own meanings and properties of healing. Whether what they said is accurate or not, it was believed that every gemstone held its own energy and through the chakra system is able to motivate the human body.

Gemstone meanings

Gems have always been the storehouses of power, and can only be imparted in your body through physical contact. Royal families especially the crowned kings and queens wore several pieces of gemstones to obtain their influences on the people. They had believed that as rulers, they can be guided by cosmic energies by connecting them with special forces.

Priests too had the same concept with the monarchs. They wore rings with gemstones as they had conceptualized on the idea that the power exhibited by the gemstones could be beneficial for them.

The power of the gemstones

Vijaya Kumar, a professor of computer and electrical engineering, wrote an overview on the power of gems:

1. All gemstones generate magnetic powers and many are considered beneficial to man.

2. A man's whole being is strongly influenced by the gemstones frequencies and vibration.

3. These stones are used for transforming and healing the mind, body and soul.

4. They trigger our abilities, soothe, and comfort us though the chastity of their rays.

5. Most precious stones have their own way of treating unbalanced emotions.

6. Gemstones which are always in contact with a person transmit their healing properties to him or her.

Birthstone meanings and origins

Years ago, some people had believed that certain gemstones generate more vibration power at a certain time of the year. That is why the month the stones power is stronger determines our birthstones. Also, other people have said that the original link between the gemstones and the twelve months of the year developed from the twelve stones which are pointed out in the Bible while others believe that they symbolize the twelve stones. For this reason, several gemstones are associated with each month.

In our time, the powers of gemstones are appreciated in the industrial uses of crystals in lasers, watches and computers. In addition, these gemstones have been used to promote physical healing in the human body by helping a person to balance his human emotions. With all their contributions to man, no wonder these precious stones have been considered one of the most valuable possessions since the beginning.

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